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SIGHTSEEING

There is a city in Israel that was founded long before the modern state itself. It is a city of Ancient Rome, of Byzantine sanctity, and of proud Crusaders — Beit She’an. Today, a modern Israeli city carries the same name just two kilometers away, but here we speak about the ancient ruins that tell the story of millennia.

This archaeological site is located in northern Israel, past Nazareth, near the spa park Gan HaShlosha. From Netanya, it takes about an hour and a half to reach by car on a weekend without traffic.

Originally, Beit She’an was established as a Canaanite city around 5,000 years ago, built upon an even older prehistoric settlement. Later, during Egyptian rule (16th–12th centuries BCE), it became an important administrative center. Its strategic location at the crossroads of trade routes — from Egypt to Greece, from Mesopotamia to Egypt — made it a key hub in the ancient Near East.

In the classical period, when the Near East became part of the Roman Empire (1st century BCE – 4th century CE), the city was known as Scythopolis. It acquired this name in the 1st century BCE under the rule of Alexander Jannaeus. The word comes from the Greek “Scyths,” though it was not directly related to the Scythian people. More likely, it stemmed from a local tradition about resisting Scythian invasions in the 6th century BCE. During this era, the entire region experienced strong Hellenistic and later Roman influence, reflected in its architecture, culture, and urban life.

In Jewish tradition, the city remained Beit She’an, meaning “House of Tranquility.” It is mentioned in the Tanakh(for example, in the Book of Samuel), where Beit She’an played a role in the battles with the Philistines.

Thus, Scythopolis was the Greek and Roman name for Beit She’an, used in the Hellenistic and Roman periods, while the Jewish population preserved its original name. During its Hellenistic peak, the city flourished with theaters, bathhouses, marketplaces, and monumental public buildings lined with 10-meter columns. At this time, it was part of the Decapolis — the league of ten Hellenistic cities. Beit She’an became famous for its massive structures, tall colonnades, and mosaics that decorated its streets and squares, many of which remain visible today.

The city was destroyed in 749 CE by a devastating earthquake, but its fallen and leaning white columns still inspire awe.

During the Crusader period in the 12th century, Beit She’an (marked as Scythopolis on European maps) fell under Crusader rule. Recognizing its strategic location between Jerusalem and Galilee, they built a fortress atop the remains of Roman theaters and market streets. Massive dark stone walls fortified the town, and it became part of the Kingdom of Jerusalem, serving as a defensive stronghold against Muslim armies. However, the Crusaders could not hold it for long. In 1183, Saladin’s forces laid siege to the city, and after the Crusaders’ defeat at the Battle of Hattin in 1187, he captured Beit She’an.

Under Muslim control, the city was rebuilt, and the Crusader fortress was demolished. Today, the surviving ruins of Crusader buildings in the archaeological park testify to this turbulent period when the city stood at the heart of the struggle for the Holy Land.

Today, Beit She’an National Park is a popular archaeological site where visitors can walk along ancient streets and admire the preserved remains of Roman and Byzantine architecture.

Open Air Museum - Ancient Beit Shean - 7,000 Year Old City

Beit Shean - 7 thousand year old city
Beit Shean - 7 thousand year old city
Beit Shean - 7 thousand year old city
Beit Shean - 7 thousand year old city

Beit She’arim is not just an archaeological site but a unique city of the dead, preserving the rich history of the Jewish people. Located 20 km east of Haifa, in the southern foothills of Lower Galilee, this necropolis was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2015 for its cultural and historical significance.
The Origins of the Necropolis
After the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE and the subsequent expulsion of Jews from Jerusalem, the Sanhedrin — the supreme religious and judicial body of the Jewish people — was forced to relocate. By the late 2nd century CE, it settled in Beit She’arim under the leadership of Rabbi Judah ha-Nasi, the compiler of the Mishnah. From that moment, the city became an important spiritual center, and after Rabbi Judah’s death and burial here, Beit She’arim turned into a prestigious burial site for Jews from the Land of Israel and the Diaspora alike.
Architecture and Burial Traditions
The necropolis of Beit She’arim is an extensive underground complex carved into soft chalky limestone. To date, archaeologists have uncovered more than 30 large catacombs, each containing halls, corridors, niches, and tomb chambers — creating the impression of a true underground city.
Here were buried noble Jewish families, spiritual leaders, merchants, and wealthy figures from Galilee, Judea, and Jewish communities abroad — from Phoenicia, Egypt, Syria, and Babylonia. This is confirmed by inscriptions in Greek, Hebrew, and Aramaic, sometimes even in verse. These epitaphs emphasize the wealth and high status of the deceased.
Hundreds of sarcophagi were crafted by local stonecutters, many adorned with elaborate carvings. Common motifs include:

  • Menorahs — seven-branched candelabras symbolizing Temple tradition.

  • Griffins, lions, eagles, bulls, and deer — symbols of strength, wisdom, or eternal life.

  • Palm branches, grapevines, and floral designs — symbols of abundance and fertility.

  • Geometric patterns — in Roman and Hellenistic style.

Some sarcophagi were painted in addition to their carvings. On the catacomb walls, stylized menorahs and reliefs also appear, showing a blend of Jewish funerary tradition with Roman and Greek artistic forms.
Special attention is given to the graves of women and children. Inscriptions mention “beloved daughter,” “faithful wife,” and “mother of the household,” reflecting respect toward women. Children were typically buried in small niches or family tombs beside their parents.
Archaeological findings show that families did return to these tombs: near the entrances, remains of benches, oil lamps, and ceramic vessels suggest memorial gatherings took place for generations.
Thus, Beit She’arim was not simply a burial site but truly a necropolis of the Jewish spiritual and cultural elite, full of symbols, traditions, and deep belief in life after death.
Historical Role and Recognition
Beit She’arim became a symbol of Jewish revival and continuity in the difficult era following the destruction of the Second Temple. After the suppression of the Bar Kokhba revolt (132–135 CE) and the loss of Jewish autonomy, the nation faced a spiritual crisis. Beit She’arim, as the seat of the Sanhedrin under Rabbi Judah ha-Nasi (c. 135–217 CE), became a new religious center. Rabbi Judah’s compilation of the Mishnah laid the foundation of rabbinic Judaism.
His burial in Beit She’arim transformed it into the most desired place of eternal rest. Jews were brought here from across the Land of Israel and from Syria, Phoenicia, Mesopotamia, Yemen, and Egypt. In the 3rd–4th centuries CE, Beit She’arim effectively became the national necropolis of the Jewish people. The belief that proximity to a great sage in death brought spiritual merit explains its prestige.
In this way, Beit She’arim became a symbol of survival, continuity, and transformation — from Temple-centered worship to Torah study and rabbinic law, which defined Judaism for centuries to come.
Visitor Information

  • Location: Beit She’arim National Park, near Kiryat Tivon, 20 km east of Haifa.

  • Opening Hours:

    • Summer: Sunday–Thursday 8:00–17:00, Friday & holidays 8:00–16:00.

    • Winter: Sunday–Thursday 8:00–16:00, Friday & holidays 8:00–15:00.

  • Tickets: Adults — 39 NIS.

  • How to Get There: From Haifa, take a bus to Kiryat Tivon, then continue on foot or by taxi to the park entrance.

A visit to Beit She’arim is a journey into the deep history of the Jewish people, an encounter with unique archaeological treasures, and a chance to experience the atmosphere of an ancient spiritual center.

City of the Dead - Beit Shearim

City of the Dead - Beit Shearim
City of the Dead - Beit Shearim
City of the Dead - Beit Shearim
City of the Dead - Beit Shearim

The Gesher Theatre (the word gesher means bridge in Hebrew) was founded in 1991 by a group of new immigrants from the former USSR under the direction of Yevgeny Arye. Its very first performance — Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead — became a sensation and marked the beginning of a unique theatrical tradition that brought together Russian-speaking and Israeli audiences.

From the start, Gesher staged productions in both Russian and Hebrew, combining world classics with Israeli drama. The repertoire has included The Idiot, The Dreyfus Affair, The City – Odessa Tales, as well as modern works. Today, the stage presents Russian masterpieces such as Crime and Punishment and Anna Karenina, alongside world classics like Richard III, Salome, and many more.

In the early 21st century, Gesher toured internationally with great success, performing at London’s Barbican, New York’s Lincoln Center, the Avignon Festival, Zurich, and other major stages, proudly representing Israel on the global theatrical arena.

In the 2025 season, the theatre is staging Krum, Beyond the Light, Souls, Crime and Punishment, Cyrano de Bergerac, Richard III, Anna Karenina, and a renewed version of its legendary production Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead.

Performances are in Hebrew with Russian translation projected on large screens. The productions carry the spirit of the Russian theatre school — marked by strong direction, outstanding actors, and bold artistic vision.

The theatre is located in the cultural center of Jaffa, just 500 meters from the seaside promenade. Nearby you’ll find numerous cafés, and only 300 meters away is an underground parking lot.

  • Address: 9 Jerusalem Boulevard, Tel Aviv–Jaffa

  • Tickets: generally range from 50 to 350 NIS depending on seating; discount shows are available. The hall offers wheelchair-accessible seating and hearing devices (please request when booking).

If you are interested in theatre, culture, history — or simply looking for an inspiring evening in Jaffa — the Gesher Theatre will be a highlight of your visit.

Gesher Theatre

Gesher Theatre
Gesher Theatre

Nestled on the western slopes of Mount Carmel, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, lies Ein Hod, one of Israel’s most unique and picturesque villages. Established in 1953 by a group of artists led by the painter Marcel Janco, a founder of the Dada movement, Ein Hod was created with a daring idea: to build a community where art, daily life, and nature exist in harmony.

The founders took over an abandoned Arab village and transformed its stone houses into studios, galleries, and workshops. Their vision was not only to create art but to live it — turning the entire village into a breathing cultural center.

 

Today, Ein Hod is home to over 150 artists and craftsmen — painters, sculptors, musicians, ceramicists, photographers, and writers. Walking through its narrow alleys, visitors encounter a vibrant blend of art and everyday life. Almost every corner hides a gallery, a mosaic, or a piece of outdoor sculpture. Even benches, wells, and gates carry artistic design, as your photos show.

Ein Hod is more than just an exhibition space — it is a functioning artists’ colony where residents sell their works, teach workshops, and host cultural events. The village also offers a number of museums, including the Janco-Dada Museum, dedicated to the avant-garde heritage of its founder.

 

Surrounded by olive groves, bougainvillea, and pine-covered hills, Ein Hod offers breathtaking views of the Carmel and the sea. The contrast between ancient stone walls, modern sculptures, and lush Mediterranean vegetation creates an atmosphere where art feels inseparable from the landscape. Statues of musicians, abstract bronze figures, colorful mosaics, and bold blue doors — every detail reflects creativity.

 

Visiting Ein Hod

  • Location: Western slopes of Mount Carmel, about 20 km south of Haifa.

  • How to Get There: By car, Ein Hod is easily accessible via Route 4 or Route 70. Public transport from Haifa includes buses to the nearby junctions, with short taxi rides to the village.

  • What to Do: Stroll through galleries, enjoy outdoor sculptures, visit the Janco-Dada Museum, and stop at the cafés and craft shops. Workshops and guided tours are also available.

  • Opening Hours: The village is open to visitors year-round; individual galleries and museums may have their own hours.

  • Entrance: The village itself is open to walk-ins, though museums and workshops may require an entrance fee.

 

Ein Hod is not just a place to look at art — it is a place to feel how art shapes life. With its blend of history, creativity, and natural beauty, this Carmel village remains one of Israel’s most inspiring destinations for both artists and visitors alike.

Ein Hod – The Artists’ Village on Mount Carmel

Ein Hod – The Artists’ Village on Mount Carmel
Ein Hod – The Artists’ Village on Mount Carmel
Ein Hod – The Artists’ Village on Mount Carmel
Ein Hod – The Artists’ Village on Mount Carmel
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